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A new wave of plant-based Mexican cooking

Over the past few years, a number of chefs across North America have begun to redefine plant-based Mexican cooking. In El Paso and Austin, based in Texas Lick it upEdgar Delfín, 38, serves traditional border dishes like flan stuffed with potatoes and beans, as well as vegan variations like burritos with soy chorizo ​​and mushrooms. At their restaurant Xochitl Vegan In the Boyle Heights neighborhood of Los Angeles, Stephanie Villegas and Dino Ponce, both 33, fill their banh tet with marinated hibiscus flowers and make charred carnitas – the iconic Michoacán pork dish – by frying enoki mushrooms fibrous, crispy in avocado and grape seed oils. And in New York City, restaurants and masa factories For all good things serves up triangular masa bags called tetelas, stuffed with black beans and epazote, along with deep-fried chocolate chips (flat round masa balls with pinched edges) with mezcal sautéed wild mushrooms. For her menu at the East Village mezcal and tequila bar EtéreaXila Caudillo, 27, a native of Southern California, recently debuted dishes like corn rib elote – sweet crispy yellow corn served with smoked paprika – and the tostada that cleverly replaces the translucent shell of tuna with dishes Jewelry of tomatoes cured in tamari and seaweed.

Processing from vegetables is hardly new in Mexican cuisine; it has deep roots in indigenous cultures and a strong presence in the culinary identity of Mexico City. For a number of years now, fashionable neighborhoods like Roma and Condesa have been home to blatantly vegan taquerias like La Pitahaya, in which amaranth and sesame tortillas are colored fuchsia with beet juice and added with curry potatoes or hibiscus flowers. But plant-based antojitos (literally “low appetite”) are as popular as their meaty counterparts at street stalls, where squash-flowered quesadillas and soccer-ball-shaped masa pieces called tlacoyos, stuffed with black beans or mashed potatoes and topped with eggs, salsa and a little cheese of your choice. Some of the metro area’s hottest veggie dishes come not from vegan kitchens but from restaurants like Expendio de Maiz in Colonia Rome, and Xoletongo, a 90-minute drive east of Tlaxcala, both draw on the traditions of rural communities where expensive meat remains an important but often secondary part of their diets. At these points, carnivorous moles are often obscured by the basic ingredients of Mesoamerican agriculture: corn and squash; beans and peppers; wild vegetables and foraging mushrooms. Dishes like these aren’t meant to be innovative, but they’ve begun to expand awareness, especially in the United States, of what constitutes Mexican cooking – and by extension, the depth and diversity of Mexican identity. – Michael Snyder


Although flashy rockers have long flirted with nail art – a custom that can date back to 3200 BC, when southern Babylonian soldiers are said to have worn gold fingernails – the Today’s man seems to have embraced digital decor in a more permanent way. Last year, musicians Tyler, the Creator; Kelly machine gun; Harry Styles; and Lil Yachty each released a gender-neutral nail polish collection (Tyler’s Golf le Fleur line includes a sparkling option in a flowerpot with a head; Style of Satisfied offers shades like Granny’s Inky Pearl and Granny’s Pink Pearl). Such entrepreneurial endeavors should not come as a surprise, however, as pomp always finds a home in nail art. Designer Marc Jacobs showed off various looks on his finger by a New York City nail artist Mei Kawajirifrom crystal-rimmed blue opals (to match his jewel-encrusted vape pen) to Art Nouveau-inspired homages to gay pioneers Sylvia Rivera and Stormé DeLarverie. Rappers ASAP Rocky and ASAP Ferg showed off Frankenstein and Dennis Rodman’s hand-painted fingernails, while Puerto Rican sensation Bad Bunny showed off domino coated nails on the cover of the magazine last fall. Of course, no one does it quite like Lil Nas X, who recently wore one Diamond manicure with matching oven the rapper’s expenses were reported to be $58,000. Ding for all? At least in theory. – Nick Haramis

In the Hermès universe, a silk scarf can be a window into the world. First house carré (French for “square”) was released in 1937, and in the decades since, it has featured more than 2,500 designs, all hand-made. This season, the French illustrator Ugo Bienvenu (who has repeatedly collaborated with Hermès) designed a scarf depicting a seaside promenade where bathers gather in surf and frolic on a giant chessboard. The artist cited legendary Japanese animators and directors Hayao Miyazaki As an influence and indeed, Bienvenu’s short films and paintings are a visual feast – in this case, as densely populated as a “Where’s Waldo” book – with a sci-fi feel. more suitable for the French artist Jean Giraud (aka Moebius). However, with just a few twists or turns, the magical world of Bienvenu can be reduced to sight, revealing the delicate beauty of an intricate accessory. $435, hermes.com. – Jameson Montgomery

In the 18th century, wine from the Azore islands of Pico and Faial (today part of Portugal) was so coveted that Thomas Jefferson, then US Secretary to France, order bottles from the region – although he did have access to French wine. In the late 1800s, viticulture on the island was ravaged by disease but today, Azores rượu Liquor Company is one of a number of dedicated producers reviving these rare acidic wines, one of which you can taste for yourself at the company’s newly opened five-room auberge (with a two-room apartment). adjacent) on Pico overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The Brutalist-inspired building, with its black basalt facade, stands out like the lunar landscape around it. Besides tasting the wine, guests can enjoy a meal of modern tapas, including grilled limpet and sashimi made with freshly caught amber. Rooms from around $230, enoturismo@azoreswinecompany.com. – Gisela Williams

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/02/22/t-magazine/mexican-food-vegetarian-vegan.html A new wave of plant-based Mexican cooking

Fry Electronics Team

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