Taking the big gong for glam this year; local food; Luxury; the sport of kings, horse racing; and future kings must be the cashel palace hotel. This spectacular early 18th-century Bishop’s House, now a five-star hotel, will draw large crowds of international tourists, business and equestrian visitors throughout the region.
It opened on the cusp of another major coup for the county – the inclusion of the Rock of Cashel in the state visit itinerary of Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall. The duo follow in the footsteps of the prince’s mother, Queen Elizabeth II, the visited her in 2011 – combining her love of horses with a buggy tour of John Magnier’s Coolmore Stud.
It was of course this scion ofireland horse industry, Magnier riding in to save this historic place and tucking it neatly under his arm in 2016. A comprehensive restoration process was initiated Appointed high-end hotelier Adriaan Bartels as General Manager to oversee the project. The property has been expanded to include 42 luxurious rooms and suites, a world-class spa, a ballroom and the Guinness bar.
The location is also quite exceptional, with its back to the rock, with the original Bishop’s Walk giving guests private access. For those interested in horses there is a horse concierge, Julie McGrath, who oversees a special program of equestrian experiences and access to some of the world’s most prestigious racing and breeding facilities.
Everything was primed and primed when we arrived at lunchtime and set off Queen Anne Room, where afternoon tea (€50-70) proved popular.
From a compact, casual saloon menu, however, my companion enjoyed a celery and apple soup (€8.50) while we shared a generously toasted sourdough club sandwich and fries (€17.50) with two glasses of delicious Alsace Hugel Pinot Blanc (€10 each).
Squid crackers and cod eggs amuse bouche at The Bishop’s Buttery. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan
Squid crackers and cod eggs amuse bouche at The Bishop’s Buttery. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan
Dinner took place in the vaulted cellar of Bishop’s Buttery. It felt like a chic, cozy retreat with a central log fire.
After experiencing chef Stephen Hayes’ superb casual dining at Magnier’s Mikey Ryan’s Pub I wasn’t surprised – in fact I was quite pleased – at what he does itNo here. It’s not a lengthy, fancy tasting menu, but a three-course table d’hôte (€85) with a choice of five dishes for each course, plus the now de rigueur amuse bouche.
Starters included beef tartare with salted egg, crispy shallots and pickled mushrooms; while Castletownbere’s crab salad had caviar, apple, dill and macadamia nuts. Sitting atop bright chopped rhubarb, crunchy pain d’épices with amaretto, pistachios and Pedro Ximénez, sublime, criss-crossed foie gras had only ricocheted off a searing pan to reveal a perfectly seared, caramelized exterior with a silky smooth core. Scallops were also seared to perfection and topped with Jerusalem artichoke chips, lardo di colonnata, kale and sea fennel.
This level of excellencemove on to the main courses, including beef tenderloin with mushrooms, Pommes Anna, Roscoff onions and Madeira; while roasted duck breast also had the confit leg, along with beetroot, endive and a lemony kumquat note. I quickly laid claim to Grenobloise black sole. It was a raised, precision-cut rectangle of boned, double-layered sole fillets, glazed in a Beurre Noisette and delicately topped with capers, lemon, and brown prawns. Across the table, pan seared halibut was just as good, served with cauliflower, clams, cabbage and a light colombo spice.
Fried foie gras, rhubarb, pain d’épices, amaretto, pistachios, Pedro Ximénez at The Bishop’s Buttery. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan
Fried foie gras, rhubarb, pain d’épices, amaretto, pistachios, Pedro Ximénez at The Bishop’s Buttery. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan
I finished with a delicious Tipperary whiskey baba with golden raisins and toasted barley ice cream; while my companion had a delicious Black Forest deconstruction of dark chocolate, vanilla and yoghurt.
There’s Dom Pérignon Rosé 2005 for €900; Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac for €345; but also a Médoc for €29 or our excellent Maruxa Godello Valdeorras 2020 for €55, which brought our dinner to €247.50 with a service charge of 10 pieces. It’s not far to Tipperary.
bishop’s buttery, cashel palace hotel, Main road, Kassel, Co Tipperary. Tel: (062) 62002; cashelpalacehotel.ie
lucindaosullivan.com
https://www.independent.ie/life/food-drink/food-reviews/lucinda-osullivans-restaurant-review-excellence-and-elegance-at-john-magniers-revamped-cashel-palace-hotel-41475391.html Cashel Palace restaurant rating: Excellence and elegance in the newly designed hotel by JP Magnier
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