RECENTLY, NO FANFARE or alerts, friends and collaborators Pete Davidson and Colson Baker (better known by his rap stage name, Machine Gun Kelly) dropped their pants and went live on Calvin Klein’s Instagram account in one of the company’s famous lingerie ads. Maintaining a joke that they weren’t actually hired as models for the brand (they were), they joked about flirting with “boys” and pouring popcorn in each other’s mouths. Something was amiss when the 28-year-old “Saturday Night Live” star and 31-year-old actor-musician lolled on a pure white couch. It’s not just two outspoken men, known for dating more famous women, who are tricking their gay followers by mocking each other by flirting in various undressed states. , even though they have. It was that they looked clean, out of the ordinary, as clean as the white boxer briefs they were paid to wear. Pretending to imagine their power as poster boys, Davidson said, “We can get all the dirty people to buy underwear. … Dirty, trash – like our fans. ”
Davidson and Baker have truly emerged as the internet’s new crushes, beloved by those who find their beauty not endearing but endearing. Defined by staunch swagger and shampoo shortages, their aesthetic is yet another mutant of the dress code, look-no-smell approach – championed in recent years by musicians Justin Bieber (denim shirt, accessories with matte mustache), Wiz Khalifa (low-waisted track pants, seemingly pulled straight out of the obstacle course) and Post Malone (crocs and bowling shirt) – culminating in what Esquire calls 2018”Summer of Sleaze. ”
Dirtbag style, however, is timeless. It was well received by everyone, from the forever wild Peter Pan, typically wearing tattered culottes in the works of J.M. Barrie’s 1904 play of the same name, to the top cast.”Lost boys,” the 1987 horror comedy about a band of sexy cyclists starring Jason Patric and Kiefer Sutherland. The hippies who came out of San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury neighborhood in the 1960s denied their status quo in the patched bell bottoms and homemade tinted ties that became their uniform. In the mid-’70s, young men dressed in their anti-establishment aggression in painted, beaded leather jackets and ruffled striped shirts. In the early ’90s, grungeers favored thrift store items such as ripped jeans and flannel shirts as an antidote to the tireless ambitions of modern capitalism. mid-’80s. In each case, clothing was confrontational, a raw, unfiltered statement of individuality.
TODAY, AS WE yearn for the sign of a time characterized by Purell’s versatile applications, few things capture attention like uncleanness. At least that seems to be the case with many of the spring 2022 men’s collections, whose standout collections share a trashy, tattered aesthetic that feels blatantly weird, both about the suffering personality and especially how much these clothes cost despite proudly scowling. (It should be said that while we haven’t seen this seemingly dirty and completely unnoticed ensemble for men since the early ’90s – when Gus Van Sant released his swashbuckling adventure. his 1991,”My Own Idaho“And Kurt Cobain wears one black dress and crown on stage – gay women, including models Cara Delevingneactress Kristen Stewart and rappers Sydbeen tested with imperfect looks for years.)
At Celine, Hedi Slimane introduced a motorcycle-inspired collection consisting of riveted vests and baggy jeans, faded, worn on the bottom and dusted with a real team of stuntmen. FMX in the South of France. Debut at Diesel, Belgian creative director Glenn Martens Combine form-fitting denim jackets with rolled-up jeans reminiscent of the ‘Mad Max’ series of fashions. Contributing to the nostalgia for an Americana from the recent past is a bit dated, evident in movies like “Paul Thomas AndersonLicorice pizza“And” by Sean BakerRed rocket“Both are due out in 2021, Eli Russell Linnetzfounder of Venice Beach, line based in California ERL, devised a pair of dirt-encrusted jeans that flared out in three separate layers and decorated with a belt buckle made from a jumbled pile of enamel pins. At Balenciaga, creative director Demna (who no longer uses them professionally) introduced bohemia to the X-rated dark rooms of Berlin nightclubs Berghain by pairing stylish high-waisted jeans with a split at the knee, with a black Lycra bodysuit. And at Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Neutral, gender-neutral, hypersexual show (sponsored by Pornhub), the Paris-based designer came up with Swarovski crystal mesh bras, and jeans, tied together at the legs and bottom pants, the Swiss photographer recalls. Karlheinz Weinberger’s gay images of rebellious gay youth in the late 1950s and early 60s.
But why, when cleanliness is an unprecedented standard, do we turn to dirty, clean clothes? The answer lies in the question. After a long time cleaning every surface that we touch, it will be interesting to roll up our sleeves, if we are wearing anything and embracing the dirt. After a frustrating and tedious period of social distancing, it’s okay to imagine yourself as the dusty, nomadic Jack Kerouac character, even as we’re confined to our homes. And after two seemingly endless years of doing the right thing for the greater good, it’s thrilling to at least imagine what it’s like to have fun, not waver.
https://www.nytimes.com/2022/02/23/t-magazine/dirtbag-glamour-mens-fashion.html Dirtbag charm is once again