Eat, drink, Lyon: explore the foodie capital of France

The color variations are considerable, explains Anne-Claire Rigaud of Violette & Berlingo, her charming old-world candy shop where she’s been selling traditional French sweets for more than 15 years. “The lighter colored praline you see everywhere uses artificial coloring and isn’t as good. Always choose the lighter, more natural-looking color,” she emphasizes with a smile.

Lined with jars of handmade sweets, liquorice, chocolate and sugared almonds, their famous shop in the Passage de l’Argue, a historic passage in the heart of Lyon, is a magnet for locals and tourists alike. In a city with more than 4,000 restaurants and nicknamed the culinary capital of France, food is on everyone’s lips in Lyon.

In an unexpected twist, the local artisanal sweets Rigaud has chosen for us to sample reveal some of the colorful history of France’s third largest city. There are Cocons de Lyon, hazelnut pralines wrapped in marzipan, and candied orange peel, which nod to the silkworm cocoons from the city’s once-famous silk industry. The famous Pralines Rouges, pink candied almonds created by a Lyon chef in the 18th century, and les Petits Pavés de Lyon, crunchy hazelnut pralines shaped like the cobbled streets of the old town.

It was the Romans who first saw the potential of the region and settled on the slopes of Fourvière, high above the confluence of the Rhône and Saône where Lyon is today. With the founding of Lugdunum in 43 BC. For centuries BC, the great city became an important outpost of the Roman Empire.

Visitors who walk up Fourvière from Vieux-Lyon today, or take the high-speed funicular ride, are rewarded with an unexpected slice of ancient Roman civilization atop Lyon’s oldest hill. Nestled in its crest sits an impressive amphitheater and a smaller odeon that have long been hidden. Excavated in the 20th century, these Roman ruins are free for visitors to explore. The larger theater was dedicated to theatrical performances and could seat up to 10,000 spectators, and the Lugdunum Museum, cleverly hidden beneath, houses a collection of locally found Roman artefacts.

Fourvière is one of the best places to see the city, attracting as many believers as history buffs. Here, the monumental Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière shines like a beacon over the city. The 19th-century architecture and interiors are an eclectic mix of Byzantine, Gothic, and Romanesque styles that somehow works.

A path descends from Fourvière through the leafy Le Jardin du Rosaire, offering glimpses of the heart of the city, with its rows of manicured roofs and pastel-colored facades neatly separated by the Rhône and Saône. Emerging in historic Vieux-Lyon on the west bank of the Saône, you’ll find yourself in a vibrant maze of narrow cobbled streets and historic buildings interspersed with lively cafes, bars and restaurants.

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Vieux-Lyon overlooks Presqu’ile and is situated on a small peninsula between the two rivers. As well as Place Bellecour, one of France’s largest public squares, it is also home to the monumental Hôtel-Dieu, which served as the city’s main hospital for 800 years. One of the most imposing buildings in the city, its 375m facade now houses Lyon’s newest shopping complex and quite a nice hotel.