The recipes are rarely strict – if you can’t find hot mint, you can’t find hot mint! – and encourage adaptation and transformation. Collected, they also tracked the movement of fish sauce from Vietnamese kitchens to many American restaurants and home kitchens of all walks of life over the past decade, especially on the West Coast, and presented it as a Borderless, quality raw materials. This makes sense if you’re selling fish sauce, but it also makes sense if you’re cooking with it. The avocado grilled perch recipe was inspired by chef Sergio Peñuelas, from Nayarit, Mexico, and pescado zarandeado. The whole fish is marinated in butter, fish sauce and turmeric, then served with onions and caramelized corn tortillas. The dish makes perfect sense, and the same goes for using fish sauce in a Caesar salad dressing, instead of (or as well as) canned anchovies. As Pham has pointed out, the use of fish sauce in pastas, stews and many other European dishes has long been part of the approach of Vietnamese chefs, including his mother.
The book also includes a recipe for vermicelliCurry fish braised with coconut with vermicelli and many raw, crispy – a street specialty of Kien Giang province, often served by street vendors in Phu Quoc starting early in the morning. Didn’t mean to go into the book, but chef Diep Tran, while researching the book with Pham and Nguyen on the island, one day tasted it for breakfast and became preoccupied with it, and recreated it. . “It’s the first thing I do when I get home,” Tran said. “I thought, I have to do this while my memory is still good.”
Noodles are also okay and rice. And she saw the red dimples of the oil, showing the annatto. And she could still smell the grassy scent of cilantro root, the mild medicinal spice of turmeric, the perfume of makrut and lemongrass. The recipe guides you through that exact layered curry: thick and creamy, richly flavored with brown aromas and soaked coconut milk, all made with fish broth. But it wouldn’t be complete without the dipping sauce, which isn’t used as a dipping sauce here, but rather a sauce for green papaya, cucumber, carrots, and the myriad of herbs you pile on top of each bowl.
In the spirit of the book, Tran made a slight tweak, calling for fatty yellowtails instead of whole fish, to make meat pulling a little more efficient for home cooks.
Cooking recipe: Vermicelli (Bun Ken with Coconut Fish)
https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/28/magazine/coconut-curry-fish-sauce-recipe.html Fish Sauce Good For Everything