Sunshine, swimming, dolphins in the bay and wide skies of every color imaginable. Just a week before storms Dudley, Eunice and Franklin swept across Britain, the small, peaceful village of St Mawes on the Roseland Peninsula on Cornwall’s south coast has a positive Mediterranean vibe. The village is in a uniquely beautiful part of the country – so much so that once again I’m torn between writing about it at all or keeping it as a selfish secret.
The pretty St Mawes Hotel is situated on the waterfront and is an excellent place to base yourself in the village. It has a slightly more relaxed, casual vibe than its chic big sister, The Idle Rocks, which is a stone’s throw down the road. There’s no reception desk to speak of at The St Mawes — the bar doubles as one, and the hotel only has seven rooms, giving it a really homey vibe.
About the hotel
In fact, it’s easy to feel like you’re staying in someone’s beautiful Cornish home, rather than a vast, soulless establishment. Rather, the boutique St. Mawes has character and charm in abundance. As we sneak down the stairs and go for an early morning swim, the hotel still feels half asleep — just the odd cheerful member of staff lighting the fire and preparing the breakfast buffet, ready when we return.
The hotel has truly mastered and maintained its cozy, welcoming atmosphere, with roaring fireplaces in the fall and winter, sumptuous sofas, board games and books in the upstairs lounge, and beautifully eclectic objects and artwork around every corner.
The ground floor resembles a cozy Cornish pub, where locals listen to live music and dogs curl up by the fire. Upstairs, huge windows open wide in spring and summer to overlook the harbor.
The three rooms at the front of the hotel all have windows overlooking the ocean, and waking up to the sound of rippling water is never boring. Just as little as the sunrise or the hustle and bustle in the harbor with a cup of coffee or tea in bed. All rooms are individually decorated to a high standard. They are modern, bright and equipped with Nespresso coffee machines, Roberts radios and televisions. Our bathroom does not have a bath, but is beautifully spacious, with a large rain shower and large bottles of luxury Aromatherapy Associates toiletries.
The food here is excellent – if perhaps a little less glamorous than The idle rockswhich isn’t a bad thing if you want something more down-to-earth than the incredible, dizzying gastronomic heights that Dorian Janmaat and his team reach there every night (and certainly not to be missed if you’re staying in the village for a special night). the end).
On our first night at The St Mawes, we opt for locally sourced scallops, which are deliciously huge, plump, soft and packed with flavor, followed by hearty bowls steaming with mussels and crispy fries, and topped off with a thick, square one Slab of sticky toffee pudding. There are also steaks, pork chops, pizzas and many other tasty, well prepared and beautifully presented dishes.
Breakfast is a real treat too – the hotel manages to make even the most ordinary of daily rituals an occasion – with warm pastries, Cornish butter toast and a full Cornish breakfast and eggs from the cooked menu. All of this is of course served with water views and friendly, local service from staff who seem genuinely happy to be working there.
There is plenty to do in St Mawes itself, whether making the most of the hotel’s 25 seat cinema, strolling to St Mawes Castle or visiting the National Trust’s Trelissick House and Gardens. Hop on the ferry to Falmouth for coffee and window shopping – the bright pink Espressini on Killigrew Street, Stones Bakery and Beacon Brothers, both on the High Street, serve excellent coffee and great food, and there are plenty of shops , which you can poke around in. If you’re lucky, the ferry will stop for a moment while a pod of dolphins playfully emerge from the water.
Back in St Mawes there are plenty of cozy pubs and little art shops to visit, plus a fudge shop not to be missed. From the hotel itself, The Idle Rocks has its own treatment room if you fancy a massage, there are opportunities for a whole range of water sports and the exquisite and unique Church of St Just in Roseland is a great circular walk from which to start can start village.
The St Mawes Hotel, Harbourside, St Mawes, Cornwall. Prices start from £170 per night for two adults sharing a Village Room on a B&B basis; stmaweshotel.com
https://www.theweek.co.uk/arts-life/travel/955936/the-st-mawes-hotel-review-cornwall Hotel Rating: The St Mawes Hotel, Cornwall