It’s Telfar’s World. We are just living in it.

For nearly a decade, the unofficial honor of closing New York Fashion Week – to say the last – has belonged to Marc Jacobs, the city’s favorite son, who came to Paris and conquered, for the world The world found that American designers could hold their own from the French.

His shows, with front-row seats filled with FoMs (Marc’s friends) like Sophia Coppola and Kim Gordon, their runways full of supermodels, were held in Manhattan’s resoundingly armed quarters, early First on Lexington Avenue, then Park, and the most anticipated event of the week. They’re flooded with dramatic sets and even more dramatic pieces of clothing – rife with historical references and tailors, rustling with taffeta, silk and ostrich feathers – and banning everyone except for the people involved.

But as the pandemic ended fashion week, Mr. Jacobs decided to do his own thing. Since February 2020, he has hosted only one programJune of last year, and this time Telfar Clemens who ended a week. This is the designer whose motto is “not for you, for everyone” who became very famous for a bag called the “Bushwick Birkin” and who has spent the last two years building it. a completely independent business from the fashion system.

As a harbinger of change and things to come, there is no better metaphor.

He was not on a show. He happened. And it’s not made to please the establishment; it was made to prove that he is becoming his own base. (The way these things go, only makes the establishment love him more, especially as the establishment grapples with its own history of racism and needs to make amends.)

It was an hour late and an hour long. It does not feature the usual 15-minute catwalk parade but two full Telfar collections and two episodes of Telfar TV, the 24-hour retail channel/reality TV experience introduced in September. Telfar TV runs on its own platform and through an app on Apple TV and Roku. Telfar and his gang (musician Ian Isiah, artist Aya Brown, poet Fred Moten, model and Tiktokker Trap Selyna, among them) control and collect all the content – and also sell some stuff which they call “drip” rather than drops.

The result was a free-form experiment in community, performance art, and the performing arts community, with some fashion and politics included.

Black body narration and generation-altering poetry are interspersed with Mr Isiah and Mrs. Brown playing the onscreen hosts with a euphoric energy, occasionally flashing sets. body part. People come in and out from two random doors to nowhere, hanging on swings and waiting for viewers to submit videos for review.

At one point, Mr. Clemens and Co appear to be spinning a giant color wheel modeled after the “Wheel of Fortune” to decide what color Telfar bag a viewer has won. In another corner, Isiah wanders through the clothes racks and recites the “cooling down” prayer, then collapses under the table. Mr. Clemens tucked a pillow behind his head and pretended to be asleep. There is some twerking. It’s confidence and worth watching.

Clemens never knew he was driving a revolution, reshaping a formerly forbidden space for Black ads in his own image, but he does it with a kind of passion. Creative fun is contagious.

At the end of each episode, the screen goes off and the lights come on and quite a bit of clothing comes out: the culmination of two years of work and many past collections that haven’t crossed the show’s stage until now. (Until recently, Mr. Clemens did not have the money to manufacture.) Together, that means a complete line far beyond the bag and collaboration Mr. Clemens has been known for. A work entitled “Performance”, which means always green, and defined by classic haute couture pieces – sack skirts, cold shoulder tops – remixed and reimagined in ensembles. daily wear of his borderless land.

His work attire Liberia Olympic team for the Tokyo Summer Olympics provided the foundation for a gender-neutral “sportswear” line that was also evening wear. It ranges from asymmetrical pressed tops to corduroy tops and extra-long sweatshirts topped with sweaty skirts of various lengths and colorful Easter parade basketball jackets and palazzo pants. Extra-large denim with drop-and-patch pockets on the side of the thigh, as if they would slide around the leg; diced, grated; or dark, with traces of curved orange sutures. Baseball motifs make up the flare of a pair of jeans. There are some khaki fibers.

Also included are country club loafers, Mary Janes turtlenecks and cowboy leather boots, plus a new, “circle” bag featuring the Telfar T-inside-aC logo. Logos are everywhere and on almost anything, sometimes with “customer” written in large letters. Clemens makes not only shirts and shorts, but also citizenship badges.

At the end of the event, after a model in a black jumpsuit covered in circular bags turned around a bit and waved a QR code around so attendees could scan it and buy it right away. immediately, all the models came out and danced, and Telfar came out with the microphone and said “Wow,” and then everyone yelled “Telfar TV” over and over.

It’s loud, it echoes down the halls of the website, and pretty much sums up what has become increasingly clear as this particular show season progresses: After years where globalization was the keyword of the times At this point, the poles of fashion have changed and what was once fringe is now a chaotic core. It’s Telfar’s World. We are just living in it.

Fry Electronics Team

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