I’ve had bad luck on the review front for the past few weeks. First the restaurant forgot to mention that we would be sharing our table with another couple until we got up, hungry and looking forward to dinner. Er, no, thank you. Then there was a fire in the kitchen the day I submitted my (good) review – much luckier for them than me, of course – and wouldn’t be back up for a few weeks. (Spoiler alert: it’s San Lorenzo’s on South Great George’s Road; put it on your list.) And then there’s a restaurant where the chef is stuck at the airport somewhere instead of cooking his dinner. we. That didn’t turn out too well either.
A few weeks ago a friend took me to Locks for dinner on a Saturday night and I loved it. Because I was her guest and hadn’t paid for dinner yet, I didn’t review it, but when I was struggling to find a last-minute replacement, it was the obvious place. I made a reservation for Sunday lunch.
The bright, airy interior of Locks restaurant in Dublin. Photo: Fergal Phillips
The bright, airy interior of Locks restaurant in Dublin. Photo: Fergal Phillips
I’ve probably reviewed the Locks more often than any other restaurant in Dublin, since I first wrote about it in Piranha, a student magazine at Trinity. (Concepts!) Since then, it’s gone through several changes of ownership, but its canal-side location makes the light and airy ground-floor dining room special, especially during the day. and never more so on a bright, clear spring Sunday. when the city hounds are out of action, make great dogs and watchers.
The owners of Locks are chefs Paul McNamara and Connor O’Dowd, but since last July the head chef has been Andy Roche, newcomer from a few years at the two-Michelin-star Aimsir in Co Kildare. It was a return of sorts, in that he worked at Locks after graduating from college in 2016.
On Sundays there’s a set lunch for €45 with extras to some dishes and, depending on how you look at such things, not having a scone or Yorkshire cake within reach. Eyes are a good or bad thing. As an Irish cannibal, my game of roast meat at home is strong so I prefer something different when out and about.
We started with a few small plates. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten a smoked olive before eating them at Locks, and now I don’t want to eat them any other way. There were tiny heart-shaped waffles topped with mayonnaise and topped with thin slices of beef tongue and pickled beef intestines, Dooncastle oysters with kimchi, daikon and “crunchy crackers” (puffed rice?) and two breads (Guinness and treacle, and sourdough made with BiaSol, a by-product of the brewing industry) with butter cultured with dill. We are off to a great start.
Dooncastle oysters with kimchi, daikon and “crunchy pieces” at Locks
Dooncastle oysters with kimchi, daikon and “crunchy pieces” at Locks
Next is our starting part. The delicate flavors of mackerel simmered under the shell of small turnips are enhanced by lamb yoghurt, horseradish and toasted kombu mayonnaise, while chunks of lobster hidden under the sea radish complement the broth. Smoked sea urchin is poured at the table. The tweezers Roche forged at Aimsir is reflected in the delicate bowls of shallots adorning a Wicklow venison with wild mushroom mayonnaise, juniper, barley and toasted sourdough. Tartare is on every menu these days, and this doesn’t disappoint, especially when the textures are good and the flavors beautifully balanced like at Locks. (There are some horrors out there, be forewarned!)
A main course of hummus with grilled chicken skin, Lough Neagh smoked eel (which I would have liked best), dill and honeysuckle was delicious, while the Delmonico of Petter Hannan beef was irresistible. – it was a feature of Locks and would have been riot if it had ever been taken off the menu. The thinly sliced meat is oddly tender and comes with a tower of tempura onions (powder as it is!) topped with dehydrated malt vinegar and an intense bone marrow juice blend. The shredded broccoli in roasted hazelnut miso is both crunchy and tastes great with umami, while the small potatoes are delicately garnished with nori, black sesame, and lemon.
A dark chocolate-covered beet egg tart accompanied by chicory coffee creamer is quite tasty, while the cheese trolley – due to a revival – offers delicacies like Gouda-style Old Groendal and spicy Soumaintrain hot. We drank Coteaux Bourguignons 2019 from Albert Bichot (47€) and two glasses of Savagnin from Jura with cheese.
The bill for three is more than a fraction of the €300 before the (great) service, but if you avoid dishes with additions you can spend much less. There are currently no restaurants in Dublin that I would like to go to for Sunday lunch.
1 Windsor Terrace, Dublin 8. lockrestaurant.ie
Budget Stick to a vegetarian main course and dessert at dinner and you can spend as little as €29pp.
Blowout Order all snacks plus starter, main, side, cheese and dessert, and dinner for two will cost €160 before wine or service.
Evaluate 9/10 food 9/10 surroundings 9/10 value 27/30
https://www.independent.ie/life/food-drink/food-reviews/locks-restaurant-review-right-now-there-isnt-a-restaurant-in-dublin-id-rather-go-to-for-sunday-lunch-41428850.html Locks Restaurant Review: ‘Currently no restaurants in Dublin, I’d like to come for Sunday lunch’
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