Looking back at the Coppa Club in Brighton

Nick Mosley surveys the Coppa Club in Brighton and finds both the setting and the food to his liking

For as long as I can remember Brighton Square has always been a bit of a non-place and it’s probably fair to say it’s not the prettiest corner of The Lanes.

There was never really a reason to go there due to the lack of shopping and restaurants.

Fortunately, I am pleased to report that this has changed for the better in the form of Coppa Club.

Can’t say the Coppa Club particularly hit my food and drink radar, it’s almost as if it just floated quietly and discreetly onto Brighton Square on a cotton candy cloud with no fanfare or fuss.

It actually opened in the fall of 2019, but it only caught my eye last year when I was looking for a bar stool to rest my laptop on for a quick coffee between meetings.

After doing some cursory research on the Coppa Club concept – as every hospitality industry these days needs to have a “concept” – I discovered that it was intended as a private members club environment for people who didn’t actually want to pay for a private members club Club. Hence the layout of the 300m² open plan space starts to make sense with a combination of cozy informal lounge areas, banquets and the main dining room accompanied by outdoor seating including sheltered igloos on the plaza outside. I actually wanted to ask where the bedrooms are as it has very much the feel of an exclusive boutique hotel with sophisticated decor and discreetly demarcated spaces conducive to entertaining, meetings and socialising.

The welcome is exceptional – the staff clearly enjoy working at Coppa Club and are all chatty and efficient which sadly seems to be a rare occurrence in many hospitality establishments.

My lunch partner Julia and I each started with a cocktail, which was honestly the least exciting part of our experience — my paloma was definitely a bit thin on the tequila for my tastes — but I dare say the bar team is a bit of an evening more “on it”. Luckily things went uphill on the recommendation of our waitress Holly when a couple of glasses of perfectly chilled Provence rosé appeared.

The menu isn’t particularly challenging, but there’s a good selection of bistro-style dishes, sourdough pizzas, salads, and small plates suitable for sharing. I’ve tried to avoid wheat over the summer, so to be able to offer a full gluten-free menu without asking…or having to ask and then being met with a shrug and blank stares was an absolute revelation. Not every restaurant has the space to safely cater for food allergies, but the Coppa Club clearly does. This is something to keep in mind if you have one of the clumsy teams in your group like I did.

I started with succulent shrimp on gluten free toast. The record screamed “Eat me” — or maybe “Instagram me,” depending on your perspective — with glittering streaks of garlic, chilli and parsley. Simple but very well done.

Julia opted for fried chicken in buttermilk with chili mayo. She’s an agonizingly slow eater, but what she described as “superior chicken nuggets” didn’t stay on the plate for long, so I’ll take that as a very positive endorsement.

For my main course, I opted for the Flat Iron Steak, one of the smaller cuts of beef you’ll find in restaurants, but I think one of the tastiest and usually the best value. At £16 including fries, the Coppa Club definitely ticked my tender beef box. Julia opted for the sea trout, which in its presentation was a serious contender for the lady’s hat at the next table. It was fresh and light – with a good balance of flavors and textures – making it a perfect choice for lunch.

I could have skipped dessert as my starter and main were more than filling, but Little Miss Greedy Guts wanted a pudding, so she chose the dieters’ favourite: syrup tart. For professional reasons I clearly had to have a tiny sample and can report that it was suitably sweet and gooey, with a healthy dollop of crème fraîche to cut through.

I’m currently very conscious of the prices in my reviews. I’d say you can comfortably enjoy two courses and a beer or glass of house wine at Coppa Club for around £30, which might be a bit high for lunch but is reasonable for dinner, especially compared to neighboring competition in the surrounding tweets .

The food here is good, the service is great – the team really makes sure you have a good time – but the star of the show is without a doubt the dining room and lounge itself. The Coppa Club definitely has it on my list of favorite spots done in Brighton.

Coppa Club, 12-16 Brighton Square, Brighton BN1 1HD

01273 900 731 • www.coppaclub.co.uk

https://www.theargus.co.uk/news/22563132.review-coppa-club-brighton/?ref=rss Looking back at the Coppa Club in Brighton

Fry Electronics Team

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