Overwhelmed by the beauty of the out-of-season Connemara

I have been coming to this part of the West for many years, ever since I met my wife at a friend’s wedding in Roundstone, Co Galway. I watched Connemara go strong during the Celtic Tiger years, and stay silent during Covid. I watched it progress through the prism of Matt O’Sullivan auctioneers in Clifden, harboring a glimmer of hope of someday buying a home there.

In August, ranks of Dublin-registered SUVs gathered in the parking lot opposite Vaughan’s pub in Roundstone, blocking the view of Inish Nee and the harbor teeming with boats being towed down from the capital. Lawyers drink outside O’Dowd’s, and mingle with golfers planning a course attack at Ballyconneely. This is when Roundstone was nicknamed “G4”.

But in winter there is a wonderful stillness to this place. Locals, camouflaged by the crowds in the summer, have only just been seen.

The land around here has a string of great houses: House Cashel to the South, House Renvyle of the Old West in Letterfrack’s past, Kylemore Abbey inland, Clifden Castle, now a ruin above town, and Ballynahinch Castle, back from the shore at Round Rock.

Many of these are linked by rail from Galway, and each has its own story: D’Arcys of Clifden Castle, Henrys of Kylemore, and Grea Ranjitsinhji by Ballynahinch. In the summer, each is worth a visit for afternoon tea or lunch. I usually rent a house in Ballinaboy, between Clifden and Ballyconneely, but this time I’m staying in Ranji’s old fishing lodge on the Owenmore River.

Ballynahinch Castle is one of those comfortable Gothic Revival houses, low and unpretentious in the front, but tall and beautiful in the back, with a gesture towards the curving lines of the roof. It sits at a bend in the river, with steps that cascade down to the water and great views of the Scots pines on the opposite bank, and the casting jetties built by Ranji stretching out towards Lake Ballynahinch.

The interior has paneled walls and tiled floors – comfortable yet relaxed. It doesn’t try to be in full Scottish Baronial style, such as Parknasilla in Co Kerry, but tries to push the line very well between a five-star hotel and a private country house.

Over the years I have visited the hotel, but never stayed there. In the past, Thanh Lan was a place to welcome guests on rainy days.

It is the old atmosphere that has been preserved. Adjacent lands have been added to the site, and the fight against the invasive rhododendron has been intense. The new wing was renovated, at great expense but also in great need of restraint. And the artwork on the long corridors of this part of the hotel is well worth the night. Our riverside bedroom is one of 20 tastefully renovated by interior designer Bryan O’Sullivan.

Several properties on the property have been sold to members of the Ballynahinch Fishing Club, and the castle is now a member of Relais & Ch.Oneteaux, but inside, the place itself preserves its former Ghillie-friendly, egalitarian feel.

The restaurant, named after the Owenmore River it overlooks, is welcoming and relaxing, but the quality is reflected in the napkins, condiments and lovely staff. Set dinners cost €70 and are well done with local specialties like crab from Cleggan further west.

Good bar food is served in the Fisherman’s Bar and the Ranji Room, where the fireplace and wood-paneled walls give the feel of an old place where stories of the “disappeared” have been told for more than a century.

Outside, the legacy of Ranjitsinhji is still obvious. Able to live in high Edwardian style through income from his Jam Saheb status in the Indian state of Nawanagar, Ranji fell in love with Ballynahinch Castle and its fishing, renting it out for the first time in 1924, then later. repurchase. He made many improvements, and at one point had 50 employees, making Ranji the largest employer in Connemara.

He is a fascinating character. I suggest Ranji: The Maharajah of Connemara by Anne Chambers is for anyone interested in her career as the first Indian to play test cricket for England, and as Connemara’s benefactor.

The guided walking tour of the grounds, which can be booked through the front desk, includes many references to Ranji’s heritage, but also includes a hike along the lakeside paths, through the lake. forests, and even a boat ride to O’Flaherty Castle on a small island in the middle of Lake Ballynahinch.

While the appeal is above the real estate, there’s a lot to draw you in outside the gates. For me, the way to navigate around Connemara is by beaches, the way you would navigate around Dublin by pubs. Starting at Ballynahinch, going to Roundstone and then to Ballyconneely, the first beach you come across is a stunning one.

A tombola juts out into the Atlantic Ocean just outside the village. One side is called Gurteen, the other side is Dog’s Bay. Overlooking Mount Errisbeg, both are beautiful, but Gurteen is more sheltered. The water here is very clear and sweet, the gentle sand calls you to the sea. In the summer it’s busy, but this time, on a warm, sunny day in January, with the cold clear light you get in winter making everything sharp, it was breathtaking. Water is baltic, mind you.

Next up is Ballyconneely, where the beach next to the golf club was an old-time favorite, or you can turn right at the old woods and head out onto the dunes to Dunlochan beach, now a favorite for surfing waves, to fight the waves. And beyond, past Clifden, and past Letterfrack, Glassilaun beach is right in front of Killary fjord, and is one of the most beautiful beaches I know of.

All that sea air tends to increase cravings. Vaughan’s in Roundstone serves delicious pub food – find a seat on the benches outside and enjoy the bay views as you treat yourself to fresh fish and banoffee. Recently, the food scene in Connemara has improved, with the arrival of pop-ups and food trucks. The Sea Hare in Cleggan is excellent, and the Misund sai Heron food truck in Leenane is also first class. For more traditional fine dining, try Mitchell’s in Clifden, or Rosleague Manor on your way to Letterfrack.

More outdoor activities await when you hike up the “diamond” in Connemara National Park in Letterfrack. The climb is tough, but the views of the coast are worth every hour. Twelve Bens form an imposing backdrop to this part of Ireland – some climb all 12 in one day. But this is serious climbing – you’d better sit in a hotel and watch the clouds chase each other over Lettery Wharf.

Arrive there

• David Robbins stayed as a guest of Ballynahinch Castle in a riverside room. Two nights for breakfast and one dinner cost €290 per person sharing. The same package, but in a riverside room, costs €490 per person. For details, visit ballynahinch-castle.com.
• There are many documents about Connemara, including cultural geographer Tim Robinson of Connemara trilogy of works; Local historian Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill has written extensively about the area, including Beyond the Twelve Bens. She also organizes engaging walking tours in the summer to document the history of Clifden, contact 087 647 1107.
• For more information on tours, bike rentals and walking guides, visit discoverireland.ie.