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School of wine: New wine from old Spanish vine

In both Chile and California, grapes have been pulled out, buried in the mix, or left for on-site consumption. But more recently, producers in both places have been producing and selling wines that appeal to grapes.

As many readers have noted, Envínate Benje has a slightly funky fragrance that, to me, smells like red flowers and berries, with a hint of rotten eggs. Sometimes, this quality can arise when wine is made in airtight conditions but this wine is fermented in concrete and aged in old vats, both allowing a small degree of oxidation, so that’s not the cause.

I asked the importer, José Pastor, about this, and he speculated that it could be the result of the vines growing in volcanic soil with low pH and few nutrients. Despite that, I skimped on the wine to get in the air and the fun was over quickly. The wine itself is light, almost subtle, with a loose texture and earthy, mineral, and floral flavors. It’s so cute with pan-grilled salmon.

Daterra’s Laura Lorenzo works primarily in Galicia, Spain’s northwest corner, where she has acquired or leased old heritage vineyards, sometimes filled with little-known indigenous grapes.

Her wine, Camino de la Frontera Tinto, comes from a quaint vineyard in southern Galicia, in a nature hideaway west of Salamanca near the Portuguese border. It is made mainly with a type of grape called Juan Garcia, with other local varieties and tempranillo, and it’s gorgeous – fragrant with notes of dried flowers and red fruit. Like Envínate, it has a light body but is full of energy and vitality, and is absolutely delicious.

In contrast, Goyo García Viadero works in an older region, the Ribera del Duero, and mostly with tinto fino, like the famous tempranillo grape in the region. But unlike many Ribera makers, who work in a modern style, Mr. García has tried to preserve the older ways; he often uses heritage vineyards in which red and white grape varieties, such as tinto fino and albillo, grow side by side. He also ferments them together.

Joven de Viñas Viejas – literally young of old vines – is made entirely from old vines. “Joven” points out that it has barely been aged – fermented in steel tanks and is intended for consumption soon, as this is the opening bottle of his range.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/02/17/dining/drinks/wine-school-red-spain.html School of wine: New wine from old Spanish vine

Fry Electronics Team

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