Between the rider’s ribs and its skin is a thin, flat, and broad muscle. While the more familiar cuts of beef have more or less the ruby red color of an undercooked steak, this one is light pink and milky, from which it gets one of its namesake “rose meat”. It is also known as the twitch or flycatcher because of its rapid contraction, which will make the cow’s flanks shiver, repelling insect bites if the cow is lucky. In the United States, however, there is virtually no market for this cut under any name. Most of it goes on burgers.
Fly shakers are more warmly received in Latin America. Colombians call it sobrebarriga – through the belly. Perhaps because of its low cost, it became known as a killer, killing famine in Paraguay, Uruguay and Argentina. A favorite Argentinian specialty is grilling or grilling a large portion of rose meat under a tomato sauce and cheese – essentially treating the beef as if it were pizza dough.
The word for this cut in Mexico is suadero. The etymology is uncertain, but the enthusiasm for suadero is not, especially in Mexico City, where in most neighborhoods people patiently stew the suadero in fat and broth before chopping and folded into tet cakes.
Like any great capital, Mexico City attracts people from all over the country, along with many of the dishes they ate back home. You can find tacos there that originate from Guerrero, Sinaloa, Puebla, Veracruz, Quintana Roo, Chiapas, etc., but taco suadero is believed by some authorities to have originated from and Mainly eaten in Mexico City.
This is probably why it was rarely seen in New York City until last August, when it appeared on the six-course menu of a new taqueria in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, and people tried the dish. This person first begins to ask: “Where have you been all your life? ”
Where to sell it, Taqueria Ramírez, lived in a small, one-story building on a tree-lined side street, in contrast built with modest houses that were roofed with shingles or vinyl siding. This shouldn’t be the first place you go if you’re looking for a classic Mexico City street snack, let alone a beef jerky most Americans have never encountered.
Taqueria Ramírez is owned by two Greenpoint residents who grew up in Mexico. Giovanni Cervantes, chef, from Mexico City. His partner in pubs and in life, Tania Apolinar, grew up in the northern border state of Coahuila and often worked as a registrar.
The list of tacos they sell is written in horror movie red on a glistening white brick wall, along with the tantalizing hint that “they may all contain lard.” (The color scheme can be borrowed from the fast service chain Mexico City Taqueria Orinoco.) Once you’ve placed your order, found an empty stool, looked around the room with pots of cacti and colorful posters, you’ll likely find yourself staring at a tub of sizzling meat.
The hot tub is a wide pan containing a hot tub of lard and broth, in which flaps of suadero gobble up happily along with the orange links of longaniza and the length of tortoise, beef intestines. Letting all three meats share the same bath makes for a much more enjoyable broth that can spice up everything cooked in it. If you’ve ever sat across from a Chinese hot pot or an Italian bollito mist, you’re familiar with this effect.
A stainless steel island emerges from the liquid in the center of the pan, formally known as a harmonic choricero. Of course, the comal is a flat griddle on which the tortillas are heated before they are made into banh tet; comal in this case is the central island, conveniently surrounded by a supply of hot spiced fats. Ramírez doesn’t exactly let the tortillas bake long enough to fry, but sometimes they emerge with a luscious crust on the edges.
The technique of lubricating tortillas in cooking juice similar to that used to produce red birria has overtaken the city in the two years since Birria-Landia truck first began to slither through the streets of Queens. The corn tortillas at Ramírez are less spicy, but their lighter seasoning matches the more nuanced flavor of cooked meat. Ramírez makes his banh tet on small sunflower yellow cakes from Tortilleria Nixtamalthe producer of fine masa recently moved from Queens to Passaic County in New Jersey.
Tripa probably gets the most out of it when lounging in a bath with lard, suadero, and spices infused with longaniza. When it is drawn from the jacuzzi into long, ivory-white strands and then chopped, the tripod is in a collapsed state. Just before meeting the tortilla, it is lightly crispy with a torch, like baking alaska.
What longaniza’s crumbs give up the intensity they have in tenderness. But the most impressive offering of the choricero comal is the chopped suadero, which has a very smooth and soft finish, with a mild flavor more like veal than carne asada. Every good taco deserves a salsa, but the suadero taco has more to offer. Taqueria Ramírez features cooked salsa roja and raw salsa verde enriched with butter. They’re delicious by New York standards, though I’m not sure they’ll draw the crowds in Mexico City, where Ramírez’s decision to serve chopped red onions instead of lighter white onions might make you wince.
Combine suadero and longaniza for a campechano, Taqueria Ramírez-style taco.
The last two tacos fillings were not taken from the choricero comal. The cactus slices, filled in tacos nopales, are cooked with onions and Serrano peppers on a griddle until they are tender but not completely mushy.
And the al pastor is made from a stacked tower of chili-roasted pork and expertly shaved so that each taco gets a mixture of crispy brown outside, some juicy inner strips, and one or two pineapple pieces. riding on top of the meat on the spit spinning. In New York City, taco al pastor has been a competitive category for a while, and if the guys at Ramírez don’t win the title, they’ll catch up with the leaders.
Eating a great taco takes less time than describing it. No matter how many dishes I order, they tend to disappear while my bottle of Topo Chico is still half full. Fifteen minutes after I arrive, I usually put my plate on top of another stack of Chiclets colored plates and make room for others who want to enjoy the twitching muscle.
Meaning of the stars Because of the pandemic, the restaurants are not given a star rating.
https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/24/dining/restaurant-review-taqueria-ramirez.html Taqueria Ramírez Brings Mexico City Specialties to Brooklyn