“This is going to be one of the hottest menus in Brighton”

I checked meanwhile earlier in the year when the food was limited to breakfast spilling over into brunch and it was very good too. As a regular at the venue – neatly tucked away beneath the My Brighton Hotel on Jubilee Street, Brighton – I was excited to try their new evening offering.

In the meantime, everything can be offered to everyone, which is undoubtedly supported by the long opening hours. From the outside it has a bit of a café and coffeeshop vibe — Small Batch Coffee has occupied the space for many years — but inside it has a relaxed, cosmopolitan vibe.

Of course there are tables for two or four, but also a variety of bar tables and stools, which I personally particularly like for eating and drinking. Maybe the more upright position helps my digestion, but I prefer to sit on a stool so I can see everything from a bird’s eye view.

The move from a place known for daytime coffee, Eggs Benedict, English breakfasts, sandwiches and pastries to a full evening meal is bold, but thankfully chef Ian Aungier has been at the helm for some time and as such has a very precise one idea of ​​what locals, visitors and hotel guests want.

Although the dinner menu says “small plates”, they are not really small. They would be better described as medium sized so these are dishes for sharing from the start, or – as they cost £7 to £15 each – you can just enjoy a couple alone and leave well fed. A short but well thought-out drinks menu offers wines by the glass.

The menu is vaguely Mediterranean with nods to the Levant in style, but the use of hyper-local produce clearly influences what’s on offer. Meanwhile, proactively engages with more local producers than most. Even in these challenging financial times, which can unfortunately mean paying a premium for homegrown food, I don’t think you’ll find a greater commitment to locality and origins anywhere in the county, whether it’s cheese and butchery or beer and spirits.

I dined with some industry colleagues so we pretty much ordered everything from the ten option menu. Even so, the meal was about £30 a head.

Anyone who loves Spanish cuisine will be familiar with the pictured grilled squid with potatoes, aioli and peppers and this was a perfect example of the classic dish. Poorly prepared octopus, squid or calamari is terribly disappointing, but Chef Ian had prepared this to perfection: soft yet textured with a rich flavor. The lamb dish exploded with flavors: smoky baba ganoush, lively pickled grapes, tangy coriander, fresh mint and sweet pomegranate seeds. It was the Eastern Mediterranean on a plate.

As a fan of anchovies, I was particularly impressed with While’s smoked, oily little beauties, which pack a punch alongside lemon zest, parsley and chili.

Perhaps the star of the show was the porchetta with burnt licks and pickled walnuts. Essentially a hand-rolled pork roulade, the meat was perfectly cooked – soft, flavorful fat and that all-important crispy crust. While I dare say that the confit potatoes — chiffon-like cutlets of tender potatoes slowly simmered in duck fat — should be considered a rare treat rather than a weekly treat, they’re about as close to culinary perfection as you can get. Available individually or with an insanely delicious spicy nduja sausage, they’re crispy, flavorful and flavorful.

My only minor disappointment was the roasted pumpkin wedges which were a bit chunky compared to the other plates. I wouldn’t say they were bad in any way, but all the other dishes were just better.

It may have taken a while for dinner to get going in the meantime, but it worked. It’s going to be one of the hottest restaurants in town.

Nick Mosley

https://www.theargus.co.uk/news/23193064.this-will-one-hottest-dining-tickets-brighton/?ref=rss “This is going to be one of the hottest menus in Brighton”

Fry Electronics Team

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