Like many New Yorkers during the 2020 city shutdown, Joseph Altuzarra discovered that being at home for such a long time led to much introspection. However, even before March of that year, life as he knew it had changed dramatically when fashion designer and husband, real estate investor Seth Weissman, welcomed their first child, Emma, by the end of 2019.
One of the things Altuzarra, 38, found she put a lot of thought into while dealing with the needs of caring for a newborn, was gender. An award-winning womenswear designer – after attending Swarthmore College and working at Proenza Schouler and Givenchy, he launched his eponymous line, Altuzarra, in 2008 – his livelihood partly depends on him understanding at least a certain type of woman, but having a daughter made him aware, he said, of the “universal nature of the world”. variation of gender binary in our culture and how we’re constrained by stereotypical norms. For example, he noticed that people often described Emma in terms related to her appearance, while boys were described by their behavior and that shopping for her always resulted in two shelves, one hanging with pink and floral options and the other with lots of flannels, he said: “Even with puzzles, there will be unicorns and those with cars.
From there, he tries to decompress how he too harbored these beliefs, diving deep into the memory of his own childhood in Paris, where he felt pressured to dress and behave. in a certain way. “There was an expectation that I would never cry or show emotion,” he said. “It caused so much shame that I had to slowly dismantle it all my life.” Being away from the office and not keeping an eye on the public allowed him to further disrupt this by trying on dresses and skirts, as well as with skin tones and blushes. “What quarantine has done for me,” says the designer, “takes away a lot of my fears and inhibitions.” After a few months, he decided to create a new line – Altu.
While some designers are content to roll out diffuser lines that include slightly less expensive versions of their main body, the Altu, when compared to the Altuzarra, is a real departure. the. Gone are the brightly colored pencil and beaded skirts, the patterned pleats, and the handkerchiefs. Instead, it features everyday staples like hoodies, body-hugging skirts, t-shirts and trousers – including two leather pants that are modeled after pants Altuzarra herself has worn for years. – intentionally non-gender, although he prefers the term “gender”full”:“We like to think of gender as something positive, upbeat, and joyful, as opposed to what is implied by ‘non-gender,’ meaning negative,” he said and added, “Altuzarra has always been an alter ego. She’s a super confident, sexy, and unrepentant woman. She is the person Joseph, as a teenager, wished he could be. ”
In fact, he says, “Adolescence isn’t a particularly happy time for me, and instead of hiding from it, I want to stick with it and make it something beautiful. and effective.” Indeed, there is some youth anger visible in Altu – on website, models shine when lounging in suburban bedrooms and on the street – but also with a confidence. When I asked Altuzarra what he would say to his 15-year-old, he became wistful and emotional. “I feel so different and alone,” he said. “I would tell my teenage self that I would be fine and find my person.”
As a result, Altu combines elements of Altuzarra’s teenage self with who he might have been if he had come of age in 2021. Low-rise pants, laced tank tops, and targeted crop tops a new generation, a generation that is not afraid to show their skin. Check out singer Troye Sivan, who previewed the brand when he donned a black Altu turtleneck body-hugging dress with large cutouts at the waist in September Met Gala. “I just want to be hot,” said Sivan to Vogueand on Instagram, millions Agree that he got there. The dress was also one of the few outfits at the event that could be transformed into real life – a breath of fresh air among the many gorgeous gowns.
The other 35 products in the inaugural collection also offer compelling versatility. Both the cotton t-shirt and cardigan have a slit at the neckline, plus that’s because Altuzarra likes to thread the pendant necklace – a gift from her husband – through the hole to make it stand out more. A matcha green cotton hoodie looks like it has four sleeves, with the sleeves tied at the shoulders for a layered feel minus the bulkiness. And a fan leather crossbody bag has a nylon lining that can be pulled out to convert it into a backpack. These items are also available in size: most are available in sizes 0 (women’s extra-small equivalent) to 5 (women’s extra-large), while pants range from size 0 to 7.
However, Altuzarra’s (other) baby has to be leather pants, one style with wider legs and the other slimmer. “I’ve got my factories doing [versions] for my own use for the past 10 years and I wear them almost every day,” he said. However, Altuzarra wanted to continue experimenting with privilege in all its forms, and so Altu didn’t really enjoy wearing a uniform. For the next release, expect pastel colors.
https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/04/t-magazine/altu-joseph-altuzarra-fashion.html With his New Line, Joseph Altuzarra honored his teenage self